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The weather at this time of year is not always conducive to spending time in the greenhouse but there are some jobs that can be done. For instance, you can rewrite any labels that are becoming unreadable and you can make sure that you have a stock of clean pots for when the time comes to start repotting. There are even some plants such as Rhipsalis that are in flower and can be watered lightly on sunny days.
Western Flower Thrips have been mentioned in the Newsletter over the last few months and this is the time to do something about them. If they are not controlled they will mark new lithops and conophytum bodies as they appear in spring. Remove the top dressing and the top layer of compost from around the plants and remove any dead material from around the base of the plant. Replace the compost with dry material to which has been added an insecticidal powder such as gamma BHC then replace the top dressing. I have used this method for the last two seasons and there has been a notable reduction in damage to the new heads on lithops but I do not think that the pests can be eradicated completely.
Towards the end of the month you can begin to think about repotting cacti provided that you use dry compost.
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This time of year always seems to be a bit flat, Christmas has gone and warmer weather seems to be a long way off. The cold dismal weather does not encourage anyone to get out into the greenhouse and do some work on the plants. However, that is exactly what you should be doing.
Most cacti and many of the other succulents are dormant at this time of the year and now is the time to re-pot, pot-on or just generally inspect and clean up plants for the new season ahead. For re-potting use your preferred compost (I use 5O% John Innes No.2, 25% grit and 25% Perlite) dry or nearly so with a soil insecticide such as "gamma BHC" or "Chlorophos". If the root ball is rock hard it should be broken up carefully with as little damage to the roots as possible and then replaced in its pot with fresh compost and clean top dressing. This will also allow you to see if there are any pests such as root mealy bug. A pot one size bigger should be used if the plant has grown within 5mm of the edge of the old pot.
Some plants are still actively growing and even flowering at this time and so they will need to be watered carefully on fine, sunny days. These plants include the obvious ones such as the familiar epiphytic cacti, schlumbergera hybrids and rhipsalis, and also South African succulents which have kept the growing rhythm of their homeland such as Bijlia and Gibbaeum. Some terrestrial cacti such as Mammillaria and Rebutia may be coming into flower by the end of the month and these will benefit from a light spray with water.
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Usually by this month the show schedule is now ready for our show in July. Although this is only March, now is a good time to prepare for the show, have a good look at the schedule and find the most suitable classes that you can enter. If every member entered at least four classes we would have a great show, so please try and make the effort this year. If you think that you don't have any plants suitable for the Unlimited classes, take a look in the Limited, there is plenty to choose from.
Once the plants have been selected, then go ahead and re-pot, making sure that you have the correct size pot for Limited classes. (NB. Under size is allowed, but not over.)
The art of showing is to catch the judge's eye. Although the judges will be mainly looking at the plant, presentation can help. Make sure that you have a clean pot and one that is suitable for the plant. Most mammillarias, for instance, look better and grow better in a pan or half pot. Apply top-dressing grit, but do not use the coloured grit as this detracts attention from the plant. Add a clean, readable label and you are ready for the show.
Don't forget, if you require any further help about showing, there are plenty of experienced growers in the club willing to help.
Those plants which need water in March should be introduced to water slowly; spray a few times before you actually get out the watering can. Only water on bright, warmer days and, if possible, spray in the early morning so that the plants have time to dry off before temperatures drop in the evening. Some plants will not need any water in March, and these include Lithops, Conophytums, some Echinocerei and any cacti with tap roots such as Ariocarpus.
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